A key that won't turn is frustrating, but the worst move is to crank on it — a snapped key inside the cylinder turns a small problem into a bigger, pricier one. Most stuck keys come down to a handful of causes, and a few are safe to try yourself.
Safe things to try first
- Make sure it's the right key and it's fully inserted — worn keys and lookalikes are common culprits.
- Check the door alignment — if the deadbolt is binding against the strike plate (common when weather shifts the door), lift or push the door slightly as you turn.
- Dry lubricant — a puff of graphite or a PTFE lock lubricant frees a gummed-up cylinder. Avoid oily sprays like WD-40 as a long-term fix; they attract grit.
- Wiggle gently, don't force — light in-and-out motion while turning softly can seat the pins.
When to call a locksmith
If the key still won't turn — or it turns but the bolt doesn't move — the cylinder may be worn, the pins damaged, or the lock mechanism failing. A locksmith can rekey or replace the cylinder, and if a key has broken off inside, they can extract it without destroying the lock in most cases. Forcing it risks a snapped key or a cracked cylinder, so stop while it's still a small job. Roger matches you to one vetted local locksmith — home and business only — with an upfront range.
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Common questions
- Why won't my key turn in the lock?
- Common causes are a worn key, a deadbolt binding against the strike plate from a shifted door, a dry or gummed-up cylinder, or worn internal pins. Try graphite lubricant and aligning the door before forcing anything.
- Should I use WD-40 on a stuck lock?
- Not as a fix — oily sprays free it briefly but attract grit and gum up the cylinder over time. Use a dry graphite or PTFE lock lubricant instead.
- What if my key breaks off in the lock?
- Don't dig at it with force. A locksmith can usually extract a broken key and rekey or replace the cylinder without destroying the lock.